ctb | photography

Marketing and Design Consulting in Greater Boston

2011-10-31T10:48:00.000-07:00

I have launched a consulting business called Colleen Barry Design which offers marketing and design consulting in Boston. Please visit my site for more information at colleenbarrydesign.com.

Eyjafjallajokull

2011-06-21T12:50:00.000-07:00

This is how you say it.

Finally

2011-06-21T12:43:00.001-07:00

Two with everything

2011-06-21T12:42:00.001-07:00

Morning came quickly to Borgarnes. Our light-block shades worked wonders (after Katie turned off her head lamp). We had a lovely breakfast at Bjarta and begrudgingly left. We took the ring road through the tunnel and back to Reykjavik.

We booked a boat tour to see puffins (and were impressed by our Spanish-speaking guide, Jorge). I got some amazing shots of the amazing birds. Jorge is a Marine Biologist. He pointed out different species, recalled now extinct birds and gave us great insight into the remarkable adaptations of the puffin. It can dive down to 60 meters, is a very fast swimmer and a great fisherman.

We wandered the streets of Reykjavik and brought the trip full circle with hotdogs (two with everything) at the same famous hotdog stand (Bill Clinton even had a dog there once!) We enjoyed a slice of delicious chocolate cake at the Laundromat - a hip hangout. Then we bedded at the 1912 Guesthouse - clean and charming.

This morning (day 11) we are boarding our plane - having driven over 2100 kilometers. Iceland has been a great host and teacher. We both seek to return one day to the land of the midnight sun.

We need an explanitator

2011-06-21T12:41:00.001-07:00

We awoke in Saudarkrokur and realized at breakfast why it was so desolate at night - we were the youngest people staying at the guest house by 4 decades! I would venture a guess that our fellow travelers were in bed by 9pm.

We filled up on a darn good breakfast and headed out. We drove back through horse country (we stopped to get Katie some face time with our equine pals) and stopped a couple of hours later at a roadside cafe.

Kaffi Munadarnes was on a path off the main road, facing a valley between snowcapped mountains. We were greeted by two 7-11 year old blond haired, blue eyed girls. They gave us a menu and we sat outside in the sun. We then realized that the entire menu was in Icelandic. I went inside to ask someone to "explanitate" it to me (Katie's new word). The woman of the house (it was a family-run operation) translated the crepes portion of the menu - that was all we needed. We ordered two and they were delicious! The chef (man of the house) brought out our meals then advised us on the remaining portion of our trip. He was a handsome man with a laugh that harkened to his Viking forefathers.

Then we started talking with a couple who were there with their three small kids. The father is from Illinois, the mother from Iceland and they are all living in Burbank, California now. They were kind and generous with their stories and advice. She regaled us with stories about trolls and elves. This is a good time to tell you that more than half the Icelandic people believe in trolls or elves. Roads are routed around their communities. Rocks that are obstacles to government projects remain undisturbed by civil engineers. When humans don't work around elf communities, there is always trouble - bad luck, repeated car accidents, etc.

She was also kind enough to explain what the massive rock piles were originally intended for - they were markers before the roadways were built. Otherwise, in an intense snow storm, you would NEVER find your way back!

We left with happy bellies and heads full of fun stories. Our final stop was Borgarnes. Having not researched the last half of the trip, it was done by sight and our Lonely Planet Guide to Iceland. We found a great place called Bjarta. It used to be a farm and is now a clean, elegant guesthouse that is efficiently run by two women. It is situated on the bay amongst wildflowers, with views of snowcaps. It was a wonderful place - we highly recommend it!

Our dinner at the Settlement House restaurant was great, topped off by Dillon cake with caramel sauce - reminiscent of sticky toffee pudding - yum!

It may sound odd, but one of our most treasured moments of the day was when Katie drew the light-block curtains at the guesthouse - it was truly dark - we hadn't had a traditional dark night's sleep all trip. What a treat! We celebrated the dark - reveled in it, really - like thirsty hikers finding a glacial lagoon. I am sure we were both dancing, though I couldn't see Katie...

The moment we got into bed, I heard a click, then the brightest light imaginable shone from Katie's headlamp - she opened her book and began to read by a light brighter than the sun.

Oh well...

Day 8 photos

2011-06-21T12:40:00.001-07:00

Huffin and puffin

2011-06-19T13:56:00.001-07:00

We awoke in our little cabin on the edge of the lake in Myvatn, ready for a good breakfast. We rolled up our sleeping bags, packed the car and headed back to the Cowshed Cafe. The greeter at the restaurant informed us that there was only 15 minutes left of the buffet. This instilled anxiety in Katie.

A normal breakfast at a buffet for me is a couple of pieces of toast, a palm sized amount of fruit, 1-2 piece of cheese and a slice or two of meat. And coffee, of course. Katie doubles my meal, then adds a yogurt, 2 bowls of cereal and a glass of milk or fruit juice. It is a sight to behold.

After filling our bellies and admiring a rainbow, we were off to the northwestern portion of Iceland - I admit that I had researched the last about that area, as the original plan was to only drive the south coast. We, once again, ran smack into a dense fog on the snowcapped mountains.

Once out of the fog, we entered another fiord valley. This time a wonderful little city was nestled within. Akureyri is like "little-Reykjavik", with great restaurants, shops and a charming and accessible feel for tourists. We really liked the feel of this town. We wondered what its population is - you see, Iceland is home to 300,000+ people. It is a small country in sq miles and in population. Well, it turns out that Akureyri is home to approximately 18,000. It certainly feels like a more bustling spot!

We were off into the mountains again. This time, our descent into horse country reminded us much of Ireland. We visited a croft house near our destination, Saudurkrokur. That is a home made of earth/turf. Surprisingly, it felt homey inside, as it protected us from the wicked wind.

When we got to our destination, we were wowed by the color of the fiord water - a wonderful robin's egg blue that eased into darker tones in the center. In the distance we could see two islands. Apparently, they are uninhabited - one of them is due to a curse that makes wives disappear after a decade - I figure any couple who lives in seclusion on an island is bound to have a "disappearance" after too much time together...

We had dinner at a local pub/restaurant and I ordered puffin - it was a cross between a bird and a fish, in taste. A good experience, but probably my last puffin meal.

We bedded at a mid-sized guesthouse. It wasn't our favorite town or hotel. But that is saying a LOT because of the high success rate we've had. Both the town and accommodations were desolate feeling - odd for a country that, to this point, had shown us very friendly people at every stop. On a Saturday night, we saw 5 people out (during our 1-hour walk). Most establishments were closed. I wonder if it is a bedroom community - people work, then go home to eat and sleep - little socialization.

I nodded off to sleep after beginning Independent People by Halldor Laxness - a great read!

Day 7 photos

2011-06-18T06:06:00.001-07:00

Moo-ving right along

2011-06-18T02:47:00.001-07:00

It was a king's breakfast at Hotel Aldan. We filled our bellies with delicious meats, cheeses, fruits and homemade breads. The bread in Iceland is always good. Then we checked out and went to the lagoon to meet our kayaking guide. He paddled up with two Canadians, as they ended their tour. He warmly greeted us and got us set up. We each wore a spray skirt, a life preserver and gloves. We then got a crash course on paddling and using the rudder on the boat. Then we put in the water and headed out.

It was dry and overcast. Thank goodness the overnight rain had stopped. We paddled out of the lagoon and into the fiord. Our handsome guide flirted with us the entire time... What a charmer! He gave us a brief history of the area, which has had success as a wildly abundant source of herring.

At one point, as we crossed the center of the fiord, we could smell oil. Our guide told us it was from a tanker that was sunk by German warplanes in WWII. It rests at the bottom under 45 meters of water. The oil still comes out of it sometimes. We could see the slick on the water.

We paddled back, enjoyed bone-warming mushroom soup and were on the road. We hauled petutee out to Myvatn. The 3-hour drive provided ever changing views. There were waterfalls and sheep farms to start. Followed by snowy mountains in fog. Then black desert-like wastelands. I photographed the stone piles arranged like sentinels on the undulating blonde grasses. Finally we arrived at the red clay mountains of Myvatn.

Before stopping at the nature bath, we pulled of at a series of steam vents. It wreaked of sulphur - much more intense an odor than the hot showers here. You see, Icelandic households are able to heat their houses and water using geothermal systems - taking advantage of what the earth here has to offer. It is an eco-friendly process. Sometimes the hot water smells of sulphur, which is apparently abundant under this top layer of the earth's crust.

So, when we walked up near the steam vents, we were bowled over by the sulphur. According to the sign, sulphur used to be harvested/mined here to make gun powder. We were taken by the color of the vents and of the dirt - bright red (the color of fresh blood) appeared underneath the thin top layer of orange clay.

It was very chilly, so after a few minutes, we opted to drive the short distance to the nature bath. This is a low key, low tech version of the Blue Lagoon. There were far fewer people. The facility was still nice and the waters were still calming.

After that, we tried to book a room at a couple of hotels via phone to no avail. We decided to ride into town to see if there were any small cabins available - we'd been seeing them along the way and Katie had been commenting about how cute they are.

We found a campsite with cabins and booked the last one. These are very similar to the cabins that my brother and I rented in Wyoming and Montana. These had a better heating system, though (and, Kyle, our cabin was marked "K1" on the key chain - K is for Kabin?)

Then we went to dinner at the Vogafjos Cafe - which I believe means the Cowshed Cafe. It is a nondescript farm building from the outside and a rustic-ish log cabin look on the inside, but fully modernized. It is situated in lush, green farmland on the edge of Myvatn Lake. I chose a table by the window while Katie harassed - no - patted some cows.

Our dinner was delicious! We had crepes, followed by a waffle with jam for Katie and a geysir bread icecream for me. The waitress explained, as I was pondering options, that it was a house specialty and invention. It was amazing! And, of course, we had a taste of milk that had just been squeezed from a cow - "fresh from a cow's teat," Katie said and she downed the warm, frothy milk. But, then she was instantly grossed out by the concept. I thought it was creamy, sweet and would be perfect with a shot of espresso!

After dinner, we met a nice couple who live in Ontario, but were originally from Sri Lanka. The woman had been bucked by a cow as a schoolgirl. She laughed as she told the story and said old friends still ask her to tell the story. Katie man-handled - no - visited with the cows who were now feeding inside. I made her clean up her hands before getting into the car. But the smell was still quite strong since the calves tried to eat parts of her jacket and pants, leaving behind green grass stains that smelled like a grassy fart. My odiferous companion was grinning from ear-to-ear about her cow visit.

We went back to the cabin where I wrote for a few minutes before crashing. I was exhausted!

Now I am finishing this blog entry at 1:00am to the sound of crickets. It is bright out, but still they know it is night... very interesting.

Day 6 photos

2011-06-17T03:13:00.001-07:00

What the fog?

2011-06-17T03:09:00.001-07:00

Our morning view from Bolti was gorgeous. The sun was out (no surprise). But this time it brought a beautiful blue sky.

We grabbed breakfast at the visitors center and were on our way. The first stop was a lagoon about which the Fulbright scholar had told us. It was a desolate, bumpy road out to a quiet lagoon with icebergs in it. We hiked carefully down to the shore, as the hills were covered in brittle volcanic rock. We've learned to count on some sliding with each step. Only one other person was at the base.

We then headed to the more famous lagoon at Jokulsarlon. It was otherworldly. Huge icebergs floated lazily, then broke apart, causing waves - I actually caught this on video and had to scamper up the hill to avoid getting soggy shoes from the waves. We saw a few seals and lots of different kinds of birds, including a skua - a large, aggressive hunter.

We then followed the scholar's advice and drove to the beach. This black sand beach is at the mouth of the lagoon, where it empties into the ocean. The exiting icebergs get pushed back onto the shore, where you can touch them. It was amazing!

We left that site and drove the 370 kilometer trek to Seydisfjordur. Along the way, we saw stunning mountains, lakes, wild reindeer and LOTS of sheep. The last part is hard for Katie, who wants to snuggle all animals. Sheep in Iceland ALWAYS run away... ALWAYS. But this doesn't stop her from trying.

We had lunch in Hofn (pronounced like a hiccup). It is famous for its lobster and I can attest to why that is - sweet, tender and delicious!

The last leg of the trip was the most spooky. We had already scaled steep mountains on gravel roads during the preceding kilometers - an anxiety-producing feat for the driver. But this was another story entirely. We climbed to the top of the mountain in a pea-soup fog. There were feet of snow all around. I pulled off the road to play in the snow and had to use 4 wheel drive to get back on the road. As we descended, we had about 25-50 feet of visibility. It was white with snow or fog all around us. We would hear rushing water and then a waterfall would appear. There were many waterfalls. Kevin told us there would be.

The fog finally lifted. We arrived in town - the most lovely little fishing village with multicolored wooden houses and a charming baby blue church. We'd reserved a room by phone during lunch. The desk attendant at Hotel Aldan was very friendly and funny. She recommended a bistro down the street and warned us (sarcastically) about the woman working there.

Bistro Skaftfell is in the basement of an old building, has an adjoining gallery and epitomizes the bohemian culture of Seydisfjordur. The woman working there was, in spirit, the twin of our good friend, Asia Kepka - full of energy and confidence. We had great food, joked with the Icelandic Asia, and left with full bellies.

Our hotel room was cozy and had a spectacular view of the lagoon, some waterfalls and the kayaks that we reserved for the morning.

We drifted off to sleep once more in broad daylight.

Day 5 photos

2011-06-17T02:15:00.001-07:00

Microclimb-ates? (okay - that was hokey)

2011-06-16T00:35:00.001-07:00

We awoke to a cool and windy morning in Steig and wandered to breakfast - no croissants. But it was lovely. There were French, German and American guests. Katie got a few good snuggles in with the sheep dog who, at 35 lbs, thinks she's a lap dog. I eavesdropped on the hostess telling some Germans about how during last year's eruption, guests were stranded for weeks - ash closed the road on one side and the road was dismantled on the other side to relieve flood waters. That story gave us ALL a little pep in our step - off we go!

Our first stop of the day was an amazing moonscape, punctuated with knee-high piles of rocks all around. Turns out the piles are an Icelandic tradition that is supposed to bring good luck to travelers. We opted to try it. We were freezing our petutees off - a German tourist told us that it snowed here last week!

The next stop was a gully that has been hollowed out of volcanic rock by water. It is covered in undulating silvery mosses. It was darn cold there, too.

As we drove along side several active volcanoes, we began to notice that the road in some areas was showing signs of recent ash drifts. As we stopped to view a glacial valley, we could see ash build up of 4-12 inches. It is a fine, black, soft sand. It was kind of warm there. We were now experiencing what we'd heard about Iceland - microclimates.

We drove another 80 kilometers to an amazing sculpture of twisted steel girders. This had been part of a bridge that was once a section of the ring road. A major eruption in 1996 melted an ice cap and sent water, bus-sized icebergs and debris flowing at top speed down the valley and out toward the ocean. It wiped out the bridge and the ring road for months. The twisted girders are all that remain.

We continued along to the foot of the largest glacier in Europe, and I believe, the largest outside of the polar icecaps. We stopped near Skaftafell to try a hike along the edge of the glacier on a mountainside. From the car to the glacier was a 10-20 degree difference. We had a minor rockslide above us - no injuries - but, we then knew to be aware of more. The glacial flow is mostly covered in ash from the most recent eruption in May. Warning signs cautioned us to remain on the path or on loose gravel, as icebergs melting over ash and mud can cause quicksand. We minded the rule. The trail head had a simple memorial for two German hikers (our age) who have been missing since 2007. That was enough to make us cautious.

Next, we had lunch at the Skaftafell visitors center. Sitting outside at the foot of the mountain, we had a great view of the glacier. We enjoyed the sun and a nice cool breeze.

We then headed to find the Bolti farmhouse. The steep, winding drive brought us to a plateau approximately 300-400 feet above the road. The lady of the house greeted us. She told us she had lived here since 1953 and had animals on the farm until her husband died in 1992. She has seen 10 eruptions in her time here. At probably 80 years old, she walks with a cane, but has a youthful way about her.

It had become quite windy and cold. We decided that the best defense was a good offense and we opted for a hike. We followed well-marked trails along a river until we found one of Iceland's most picturesque waterfalls, Svartifoss. The narrow falls are set in a curved cathedral-like bank of hexagonal basalt columns. It was breathtaking!

At the base of the falls, we met a couple of young people who live in Massachusetts. She works at UMass Amberst, her alma mater. He graduated from Harvard and is a Fulbright Scholar, studying geothermal energy in Iceland for 9 months. They were very nice and had a few tips of what to see.

We separated from them and headed back to the car, eager to find a good dinner spot. An arctic fox was by the car enjoying his dinner. What a treat for us!

On the advice of the farmhouse owner's helper, we chose the Foss Restaurant. Our meals were delicious - Katie opted for the lamb shank, and I for the farm-raised Atlantic char. You may or may not be surprised that Katie was still hungry enough after dinner to want to explore dessert options at the truck stop across the street. I obliged.

One of the advantages of endless daylight is round-the-clock hiking. So, at 8pm, we decided to hike to a different part of the glacier. The mountain's fragility was once again exposed as a new trail was being made to bypass a major rock slide that sent 6 foot by 6 foot rocks down the mountain. The birds were out in force and the winding trail took us to two glacial lagoons. In addition to cautions about quicksand, this sign warned that swimming in these lagoons would result in hypothermia, as the water is only 2 degrees Celsius - 35 degrees Fahrenheit. The smaller lagoon was a lovely blue/green, which I suppose could entice visitors to attempt a swim. There were few white icebergs visible in the larger lagoon, but it was still a stunning sight to see black icebergs lazily floating like ships.

We drove back to the farmhouse, grabbed our sleeping bags and claimed two unused bunks in the shared facility. The other beds were occupied by two kids from France and one from South Korea.

After beating Katie at 3 rounds of Boggle, it was time to call it a night. I am the last to fall asleep, as I type this to the sounds of multinational snoring.

Day 4 photos

2011-06-15T01:48:00.001-07:00

"My raven shit on me..."

2011-06-15T01:32:00.003-07:00

We awoke to a beautifully sunny day at the Vatnsholt farm. From our room we could see islands and volcanoes very clearly. We could also see what would become a pattern on day 3 - small villages and their churches.

Breakfast was delicious, though there were no croissants for Katie, thus ending her amazing 3-day, 9-croissant streak. We hung out with the staff and owners of the farm as we fed on various meats, cheeses, bread, jam and waffles.

Turns out it was the calf's breakfast time as well. The owner offered to let Katie feed the calf - I thought she was going to jump out of her skin with excitement! The owner prepared a large plastic jug of warmed formula with a nipple on the end. Katie held on for dear life as the calf punched at the jug with its mouth - just as he would to stimulate milk in his mother's teats. When the jug was finished, he wasn't. He chased Katie around, punching her legs and ass when he could catch her. In an effort to relieve Katie, I took the jug and distracted him - so now I was the target of his hungry instincts! He punched at anything his head's level, which made me quite vulnerable. When I was watching him carefully, I could dodge most of his attempts. But when I was distracted by discussion or the menagerie of animals that surrounded us, I was pummeled. The ensuing interplay between me and the calf led to a collection of lude jokes that made us all laugh out loud.

So, the aforementioned menagerie included a raven, a silky blue and white chicken, an arctic fox cub, a nearly hairless dog and a minpin named "Cleopatra" who oversaw the entire bunch as its self-appointed queen... Not to mention the various dogs that we'd met the day before. The most silly part was that there was a sense of respect at each point of the food chain, though Cleo was inordinately interested in the silky chicken - perhaps she had a yen for scrambled eggs. At one point the farm's owner announced, "My raven shit on me, so I will go change my pants." Who could argue with that??

By the time we left, we felt like we'd made many new friends. If you are ever in Iceland, consider staying at the Vatnsholt guesthouse. Perhaps Elvis the goat will dance for you, just as he did on Icelandic national TV - go ahead, look it up on YouTube...

We were on the road again (a la Willie Nelson). Our first stop of the day was Seljalandsfoss waterfall. This is where I noticed that "foss" means "waterfall". We hiked up the side and down the slippery and muddy rocks that led just behind the falls. It was misty and cool, and not for a safety nut. I found it difficult to keep my balance with my camera bag, while my glasses misted over. But the view and thunderous sound were worth it!

From the front, we could see two other falls along the deep-green, grass and moss covered mountain. A drive off the ring road toward Porsmork (that name makes me giggle) provided views of caves and rock arches, as well as a feasting ferret.

Next stop? Skogafoss. If you guessed that this is another set of falls, you are correct! This was a much more intense waterfall in terms of size and volume. The mosses around the falls were stunning yellows, greens and reds. There was a staircase that went to the top, but neither Katie nor I were ready for THAT much walking.

As we rejoined the ring road, we could soon see the ocean to our right and the Eyjafjallajokull glacier to our left. This is the glacier covering one of the many active volcanoes. Specifically, we we driving next to Hekla and Eyjafjallajokull, which was responsible for last year's month long eruption that interrupted European air travel.

This is where this tourist was reminded of the "fire and ice" history of Iceland. A volcano eruption in this region will melt the glacier on top of it, resulting in flash floods. It will spew poisonous gasses, killing nearby sheep. In a coastal area like this, there is also a history of volcanic-earthquake tidal waves that can wipe out an entire village. We are very aware that we are at Mother Nature's mercy here. But, we are equally enchanted by her beauty. I am convinced that this land was the inspiration for Lord of the Rings - all at once lush and barren; soothing and punishing.

We continued along the coast to the rock arch at Dyrholaey. The road quickly became dirt and gravel as we wound out toward the sea and up to the rocky promontory that juts out of the black sand beach on one side of a small bay. Several hundred feet in the air atop the arch, we were afforded views for miles in each direction. This spot is closed each year for the nesting season of puffins.

Reynisfjara was on the other side of the bay. Instead of climbing upward, this time we drove straight out to the beach. This side of the bay gave us a grass-covered mountain, built atop pipe organ-like basalt columns and toothy caves that shimmered with golden flecks. This is a great puffin sighting area - I saw one returning to its nest.

Very hungry from walking, driving and sightseeing, we drove a short distance to Vik (god bless 3-letter town names). At one time last century, Vik was wiped out by a tidal wave. It was rebuilt as a lovely beachside area with views of a hilltop village and its church. The little white church reminded me of a New England schoolhouse, with a red roof. It was situated atop a rolling green hill with purple flowers. We had a great dinner at a small restaurant next to the visitors center and then drove to our accommodations at Steig guesthouse.

Situated at the foot of a mountain, with a view of the ocean, Steig is a quiet spot accessible by dirt road. They have sheep and dogs. Once I heard the lulling sounds of the babbling brook next to our room, I was out cold.

Day 3 photos

2011-06-15T01:32:00.001-07:00

Croissants come to those who wait

2011-06-13T14:17:00.001-07:00

When we went down to the lobby this morning for breakfast at 9am - the normally vacant breakfast area was full of Swedes! Katie ran to the croissant basket only to find a few pieces of white bread and one piece of rye. She was visibly shaken. I then looked to see a Swedish septuagenarian wrestling with the coffee machine... I became shaken as well. Turned out the lack of coffee was due to user error and croissants were in the oven - thank god!

We got on the road and headed northeast toward Geysir. We stopped along the way at Laxnes Horse Farm. Unwilling to take a 9 hour trek, I approached the farm's owner, introduced myself and asked if we could pay for some time patting the horses. He threw his head back and laughed, "Oh, no - just go in there. They are very docile and won't bite or kick. They might appreciate a good scratch!"

We took him up on it and found the Icelandic horses to be as warm and mild-tempered as the guidebooks say. They followed us around like puppy dogs.

On the way to Geysir we started running low on gas and found an N1 station. I managed to figure out how to use the self-filling pump without the benefit of an advanced degree - it involved math, language translation and a little mechanical maneuvering. I definitely filled the tank. I may also have transferred 6380 kronur into a Swiss bank account - the latter remains to be seen...

Then on to Geysir - You can imagine what this town is famous for. The hot springs were visible from the road. We parked in the visitors' lot and walked 100 meters off the road, following the overflow from the springs. Most of the bubbling caldrons had a name next to them and all warned of 100 Celsius temps. The largest one had the largest audience. We all stared at it as it began to breathe. The rising and falling of the meniscus was reminiscent of the rising and falling belly of a sleeping giant. After a few minutes, the water expanded upward in a bubbling tower about 30-50 feet in the air! We all shouted in excitement. Then it burst twice more before Katie and I left to grab lunch at the roadside cafeteria.

It came as no surprise to me that Katie opted for a ham and cheese croissant for lunch, followed by a chocolate croissant for dessert - her third and fourth croissants of the day. I think she has confused Iceland with France.

So, on the road again to Gulfoss. This spot is home to a raging waterfall - but you'd never know it from the road. It looks like the steam behind the visitors' center might be from another hot spring. Instead, as you hike along the trail, you can hear a distant rumble, which becomes a thunderous roar. The steam is actually mist from the frothing torrent. It is two layers of waterfalls. The first appears to be a 30-50 foot drop. The next looks to plummet about 100-200 feet into a deep river canyon. The side of the canyon has green moss on the ledges of deep brown and gray volcanic rock.

Next, we drove toward Selfoss. The ride was full of horses, goats, sheep and swans. Our inn is a bit off the main road and for the second time today, we left the smooth ride of pavement for the rocky terrain of gravel.

As we wound toward the Vatnsholt farm and guesthouse, we saw the many animals who would be our co-hosts. Our human hosts warmly greeted us, pointed out the volcanoes and islands on the horizon and introduced us to their newest addition - a calf whose mother abandoned him due to a birth defect. He now thinks he is a dog because the dogs have been raising him. I agreed to take our our bags to our stunningly renovated accommodations while an exhuberant Katie chased the calf around the field (poor calf).

Our hosts asked us for our preferred dinner time. We gave ourselves 90 minutes to develop an appetite. To prepare, I butchered Katie at ping pong and foosball. Alright, perhaps "butchered" is too strong a word. Perhaps "had my ass handed to me" is slightly more accurate... I mean she IS an athlete! Hey - who's writing this damn story, anyway???

Dinner was made just for us. We had homemade vegetable soup with homemade bread. Then lamb with vegetables for a main course and chocolate fondant for dessert. I embarrassed myself by inhaling it all. Katie took the more polite and leisurely approach. Until I noted that, though it is light out all night, the animals may have a bedtime. She bolted out of the dining room.

I am enjoying a quiet moment in this surprisingly sleek, modern home on the edge of a rustic farm. It is just after 9pm which is just about the time of the day that the summer sun appears to be its brightest and I begin to fade.

Day 2 photos

2011-06-13T02:49:00.001-07:00

Fly me to the lagoon

2011-06-13T02:46:00.001-07:00

Day 2 - Iceland

Yesterday, we decided to drive to the Blue Lagoon. We got up, Katie had her customary 2 croissants and I had my customary 2 cups of coffee, and we were off.

We followed a general directional sense and a simple map in the southwest direction. There are so few roads that it is difficult to make a mistake - granted, the town names are routinely 15-20 letters long. We kept the ocean on our right and the volcanic moonscape on our left.

Suddenly, distant steam plumes played against steep mountainsides. Upon closing in, we realized the plumes were from the lagoon. We took a narrow road off the 2 lane highway and snaked through basalt and moss toward the facility. In the last 1/4 mile, we got out fist sight of the milky white and blue water next to the road.

The facility is top notch. Wrist bands have microchips that act as credit card, access keys and locker combinations. We rented towels and robes and headed for the dressing rooms. You are required to take a nude shower before donning your bathing suit and entering the lagoon - this is where you can easily spot the Americans - waiting in line for the private shower stalls.

After showering, we walked down to the picturesque lagoon. It is a giant azure steam bath, surrounded by black volcanic rock. We waded into the soothing water and relaxation began to penetrate every muscle. I wandered to the bar in the lagoon and ordered a cocktail - completing my relaxation.

We found one of the silica mask dispensers and lathered the white butter onto our faces, shoulders and arms. It was a cooling sensation. Rinsing it off revealed the softest skin I've had since I was an infant.

After spending 20 minutes in the lagoon, I found it tough to carry my weight on my legs. I found a deck chair, shielded myself from the sun with my robe, and fell asleep. The rest I got was amazing!

I felt more deeply relaxed than I have felt in years. I thought the lagoon would be a fun touristy thing to do - I didn't realize it could be considered so therapeutic.

We wanted to have dinner close to the water. So, we drove back to Reykjavik and went to a hotel that I originally thought was ours. When I'd left it 2 days ago, I saw that it had a restaurant called Panorama on the top floor. When we arrived via elevator, the view was breathtaking. The menu prices were a bit steep and we didn't have reservations. So, we negotiated the best table by offering to be out in 30 minutes. We ordered a cream of mushroom soup, a lobster soup and mojito. Reykjavikurs love their mint cocktails. All 3 items were fabulous - how fabulous? It was SO good that not even Michael Bolton singing "Fly me to the Moon" on repeat could ruin it!

Then we went down to the water to visit the Viking ship sculpture and watch the Atlantic terns bomb the water for THEIR dinner. A perfect day.

A hitchhiker's guide to Iceland

2011-06-11T18:36:00.001-07:00

We arrived after midnight in Reykjavik with dusk settling in... Or so we thought. What I assumed would be darkness for two hours is more like dusk - that IS Icelandic darkness in spring. So, I guess the 22 hours of purported daylight are more like 24 hours.

The sleekly designed Reykjavik airport was a welcome sight to weary travelers - some connecting to other parts of Europe. We were one of the few for whom this is the final destination.

We found the desk for our rental car company and waited for the customer ahead of us to decide if she wanted ash insurance. Because of the recent volcanic eruption in the south, some cars are returning with paint and glass damage from the pumice dust.

A young man approached us, carrying two bags. "Are you headed into Reykjavik? Can I give you gas money for a ride? The bus is $35."

Katie and I looked at each other and said, "Sure." It was 2:00 am, still sunny, we were about to decide if we wanted ash insurance... might as well pick up a bright-eyed hitchhiker.

Kevin is from Long Island and is on a barely planned trip. He made his flight reservations in a daze after being enthralled by his last visit here in February. He ONLY made flight reservations.

During the 25 minute ride into town, Kevin gave us his version of a traveler's guide to Iceland... Deftly pronouncing 20-letter town names he had visited. His plans this time include hitchhiking and eating a cube of spoiled shark, an Icelandic delicacy. Whether or not I join him in this endeavor remains to be seen...

We drove him approximately to his destination - he couldn't find the scrap of paper that included his friend's address and phone number - but had a general idea of the building's location. We exchanged emails and Katie and I left.

Reykjavik was hopping with bar-crawlers. Our night desk clerk said the bars are open til 5:00 or 6:00. We slept.

Refreshed, we are enjoying a lovely breakfast and will decide the day's plan.

Photos, day one

2011-06-11T18:32:00.001-07:00

Three days in one

2011-06-11T18:22:00.001-07:00

After we ate a hearty breakfast of fruit, croissants, fish, pickles, beets and coffee, we wandered in a light mid-morning rain. We visited the brand new music performance center on the bay, with its sleek, honeycomb window design. We walked past the building in which the cold war was ended with a peace accord. Then we drove up to the Pern building on the hill for a spectacular view of Reykjavik. Afterward we napped (our second nap in 12 hours).

When we awoke, we drove for lunch to Cafe Loki in the shadow of the big church (I won't attempt the name). The menu included fish in many forms, dried, in a paste and "strong tasted shark". This shark beckons me. But, I opted for smoked trout.

So, the Icelandic tradition is to catch and kill a Greenland shark, bury it in the ground for months, occasionally douse it in urine and then, when it is perfectly putrid, eat it. The smell is horrendous, the taste is okay, and the aftertaste is revolting - so, you chase it with a somewhat gross liquor... Of course.

I can't wait.

We visited the church and took the elevator to a breathtaking view at the top of the spire. Then we sat in a pew for a musical performance on the massive pipe organ, with its 5000+ pipes. We then walked the streets, perusing shops and talking with locals.

After sufficient sightseeing, we went back to the hotel for another nap (our third). We awoke at 9:30pm to the brightest sunlight of the day. It was totally disorienting - after all, for us it felt like our third day and it was fewer than 24 hours after our arrival!

Thoroughly dazed and caught in a time warp, we opted for what anyone would; one of Iceland's favorite national foods: hotdogs. We went down to the bay to Bæjarins beztu for two with everything. Delicious!!! Of course, we decided to follow those with dinner at Cafe Paris. The staff was wonderful, as was the food! I enjoyed a Gull beer, native to Iceland. A very drunk man came over to be friendly, the staff escorted him politely elsewhere. When we left, they smiled warmly.

The streets at 11pm were filling up with partiers and musicians. We wandered down toward the rosey dusk on the shore and admired the boats in the shipyard. The maritime vista was stunning in the night sun with its long shadows.

Now we are back at the hotel, only 24 hours after landing and full of admiration for this vibrant city.

Gas Station Roses with Asia Kepka and Natalia Zuckerman

2011-02-12T11:18:00.000-08:00

The latest in the video projects was some shooting that I did with Asia Kepka. Now, please keep in mind, the creativity and skill were hers - along with that amazing face). The musician is Natalia Zuckerman. She just finished a tour with Janis Ian.

Enjoy!

FREE mp3 download from Anne Heaton

2010-12-18T08:11:00.000-08:00

Incredibly talented Boston singer/songwriter, Anne Heaton, has offered a gift to everyone - download her musical version of the St. Francis Prayer - it is absolutely gorgeous!

I never met a mic I didn't like.

2010-12-14T23:40:00.000-08:00

A wise man once said to me, "I never met a mic I didn't like." Well, I am just as verbose!

I gave a presentation to a group of Brokers and Owners from real estate companies in 5 different states today. What a great group - we had fun and got a LOT accomplished.

Wild horses and live music

2010-12-07T08:55:00.000-08:00

These are some of the photos I took at the FOAL reserve in Cody, Wyoming.

In August of 2009, my brother, Kyle, and I took an amazing two week driving trip from Rapid City, South Dakota to Seattle, Washington. We met many warm and friendly people and took in some of the unbelievably beautiful sights that the northwestern states have to offer. A very sweet lady, who ran one of the campsites we visited, recommended we look for wild horses on our way up to Cody. She said, “You can tell they’re wild horses by their long and flowing manes. They’ve never been trimmed.” She was right. We could see them from the road and, after a hair-rasing miscue that I will not detail here (short story: 2 rattlesnakes), we found the road into the reserve, where we carefully hiked to see the mustangs.The music is a live performance that I recorded in January, 2010.

Anne Heaton composed the music - I believe the lyrics are borrowed from a poem . This touching rendition was done at Sub Rosa, a monthly musical gathering at Lizard Lounge in Cambridge, Massachusetts. That was my first Sub Rosa experience - I will never forget that show and I believe this song will stay with me for years to come.

For more about FOAL: http://www.friendsofalegacy.org/

For more about Anne Heaton: http://www.anneheaton.com/

For more about Sub Rosa (via Rose Polenzani): http://www.rosepolenzani.com/

Sub Rosa rehearsal with Rose Polenzani

2010-12-06T19:12:00.000-08:00

This is Sub Rosa's "Rose", herself, rehearsing a song from her soon-to-be-released album. Rose Polenzani is a class act and is always surrounded by a great group of talented musicians...

Sub Rosa rehearsal with Margaret Glaspy

2010-12-06T19:09:00.000-08:00

I love the feeling of the group in this song. Margaret Glaspy does such a great job with this one. Again - this is Sub Rosa rehearsal

Sub Rosa rehearsal with Elana Arian

2010-12-06T19:05:00.000-08:00

This great performance is by Elana Arian at the Sub Rosa rehearsal. You can see the wonderful group of musicians all contributing to this lovely song.

Sub Rosa? Yes, indeed.

2010-12-06T18:53:00.000-08:00

I was able to get some video practice with some GREAT local musicians. This particular video features Alastair Moock, Rose Polenzani, Elana Arian and Margaret Glaspy, amongst others... I believe this song is called, "Yes, Indeed".

Fairwell

2010-08-30T02:38:00.001-07:00

We are on our way out of Ireland. Hopeful that we might return someday.

Misc Ireland

2010-08-29T14:27:00.001-07:00

Day 10 photos

2010-08-29T14:23:00.001-07:00

Tea for two

2010-08-29T14:15:00.000-07:00

After leaving my family (with a parting gift of a trick poo), we drove the coastline to Rossaveel. We caught the ferry to Inishmore - the largest of the Aran Islands.

Immediately upon disembarking, we were hounded by loads of bike-for-hire and horse-and-trap companies. We opted to walk the small island, stopping for cows and beach vistas. It seems as though the island may be or have been volcanic from the rocks on the beach. We had tea for two before leaving.

Then we took the ferry back and drove from Rosssaveel to Dublin. At Galway we hooked up with the new M6 which moves well through the center of the country to Dublin.

We are now back at out B&B from the first two nights in Dublin and are preparing to go home.
:-(

Day 9 photos

2010-08-29T14:08:00.001-07:00

Bustling downtown Galway

2010-08-29T07:06:00.001-07:00

Today we opted to go into Galway City - I call it that because "downtown Galway" made my aunt laugh. What a charming city. We went to the market (always there on a Saturday), the Spanish Arch, Nora Barnacle's house and sat for bread and butter pudding in an outdoor cafe - big surprise, I know.

Then we drove to the Claddah, Salt Hill and several other towns around the shoreline. It is so lovely!

Then we went back to my family's house for another delicious dinner and lots of laughs. They are so much fun!

Day 8 photos

2010-08-29T07:02:00.001-07:00

Elvis Presley and Johnny Cash

2010-08-29T07:00:00.001-07:00

We began our day with a horseback ride along the cliffs, as we were blessed with another sunny day. Liam was our knowledgeable guide - a strong, handsome and bright lad of fifteen. The clear day afforded views of Galway Bay and the mountains. Liam said that was quite unusual as a fog often settles over the bay. I was riding Elvis Presley (in his prime and skinny years) and Katie was atop Johnny Cash. Both horses were very polite and willing.

After our ride, we drove to Lisdoonvarna for lunch. This is the town with the famous Matchmaking Festival in September. It is very small - but with loads of charm.

On our way into Galway, we passed through the Burren - a rocky terrain that might as well be called the Barren. It is totally inhospitable at the top and lush valley at its base.

Then we arrived at the Cliffs of Moher. What a stunning view! We walked along - delighted by the silly signs warning that getting too close to the edge would result in a terrible, rocky death.

Then we drove into Galway. After a bit of getting turned around, we arrived at my aunt, uncle and cousin's house. They were delightful hosts, entertaining us with delicious food, champagne and wonderful stories of their daughter's recent wedding in Italy. It was so welcoming!

Day 7 photos

2010-08-29T06:59:00.001-07:00

When the dog (horse) bites...

2010-08-28T10:01:00.000-07:00

The dog returned to the B&B once Katie had gone up to the room - he's a stealth one. But Katie got in one last snuggle before we were off.

Breakfast was delicious - the house was booked, so we heard lots of accents and languages. We spoke to some nice fellas who liked it so much they were staying another night. Katie entertained some of us by trying to make toast - on two occasions she managed to launch her toasted slices out of the toaster, landing somewhere nearby.

Back on the Ring. We saw some amazing landscapes along the westernmost points - with Skellig Michael and Little Skellig punctuating the Atlantic.

We landed in Doolin - a picturesque little pub town with musical roots. Maeve was our host at the Churchfields B&B, which was nestled in a field in the shadow of a ruined church. We had dinner at O'Connor's and listened to music at Fitzpatrick's over another sticky toffee pudding and a pint of Guiness. Then we walked back to our B&B on the hill. But not before Katie tried to snuggle a horse and was bit. The skin wasn't broken. But they didn't stop the hypochondriac from assuming the worst - from staph infection to an amputation...

Day 6 photos

2010-08-28T09:57:00.001-07:00

Porridge... FINALLY!!!

2010-08-25T12:58:00.001-07:00

Katie got her porridge - after several failed attempts. Chris made an amazing breakfast spread for us and talked with us about American politics. My fried breakfast was delicious - it included black pudding - all said and done, there were sausages, bacon, eggs and two types of pudding - that's 5 meats... 5. My arteries are loudly chugging their way through this country.

We said goodbye to the folks and the dogs (Scamp and Lily) and we were off to navigate the slender roadways, up and down the hills of Kinsale to see Charles' Fort.

Then we hit the Ring of Kerry. It is absolutely stunning - very inhospitable landscapes at times. Katie has abandoned accosting people and has instead taken to scaring many forms of wildlife. Today it was sheep. She tracked them with a camera like a hunter with a shotgun. And they ran accordingly. When we arrived at the midpoint of the Ring, we found a lovely B&B with a friendly dog named Mondo - as I write, he is currently hiding from Katie... Even the sheep have fled the hillside. It's disturbing. I think our hostess even left.

We walked a little while ago and saw some amazing horses. At one point during our hike, a horse was calling to us over the hill.

Day 5 - photos

2010-08-25T12:39:00.001-07:00

A shipwreck

2010-08-25T12:21:00.000-07:00

We found out what we missed - breakfast was spectacular! Kathleen and Jack put on a wonderful spread at the castle - including their hens' eggs and cows' milk.

Then we were off to see the oldest working lighthouse in the world at Hook's Head. On the way we saw an amazing shipwreck - the ribs of the ship were exposed - really amazing. We then drove through New Ross which is where the Kennedy clan is from. Then we stopped for lunch in Waterford before driving through and onto Kinsale. That is a picturesque fishing village, now overrun by tourists and foodies. We stayed at the Olde Bakery with Chris and Tom - they are a very funny couple.

The driving is often winding and occasionally treacherous - especially when you are trying to share a particularly narrow road with an oncoming tourbus. Though I must admit, I like the adventure of it. :-)

Day 4 photos

2010-08-25T03:12:00.001-07:00

The Norse and the horse

2010-08-25T03:08:00.001-07:00

We started off the day by missing breakfast at Killiane Castle. We said good morning to the horse and cows then went into Wexford for breakfast. We ate at the Potato Market and met some very nice people who live in the area... And their dog. They'd taken a year's holiday and gone to New Zealand for much of it - they highly recommend that country.

Then we walked the water's edge and wandered around the old town walls and the remains of the old priory. Wexford, like many others (including Dublin) is an old Norse town. There is evidence of the Viking history in the narrow alleys, strong forts and in the language. Irish sounds a lot like a fiord language.

Then we spent the day wandering around the 230-some acres at Killiane. Unlike American B&Bs, you are encouraged to wander in with the sheep an in the old tower - a fastened chain or lock doesn't mean "keep out". :-)

We ate in sleepy Rosslare and bumped into our waiter from the Potato Market and his mother. Lily was her name and she beamed about him!

We arrived 15 mins too late for dessert at the restaurant in Wexford. But made up for it with traditional Irish music and a half Guinness at a local pub.

Day 3 - more photos

2010-08-25T02:56:00.000-07:00

Day 3 photos

2010-08-25T02:49:00.001-07:00

Monks and farmers

2010-08-25T01:52:00.000-07:00

We awoke in Dublin, had breakfast (Katie had another fried breakfast - I had cereal - I am nearly meated out), then we said goodbye to the Chilean and our Romanian/Irish host, and we were on our way.

Our first stop was Powerscourt - this was a spectacular estate and garden. We were amongst old cars - both American and European. The gardens were similar to Versailles.

Next stop: Glendalogh. This is 6th century monastic settlement - ruins abound. St. Kevin sure did know his scenery.

Then we had lunch in Avoca - which means the meeting of the waters. We sat with a nice couple in their late-sixties - he is British and she is Irish. They live in England and, I got the news directly: she wins all their arguments. The restaurant had music outside and Gaelic Football inside - it was a strong match between Dublin and Cork - I don't know who won.

Then it was a beautiful, speedy and serpentine drive through hallowed forests and pristine farm country. We made several stops for sheep-time.

Then we arrived at Wexford - a sleepy fishing village on a Sunday. Our B&B is Killiane Castle and Farmhouse - with horse, sheep, hens and cows. The host was a tad confused that I'd selected a room with one double instead of two singles. ;-) It is picturesque and I've been awarded Girlfriend of the Year for finding and booking it. Katie fed the hens who chose to peck at her finger, probably thinking it was a grub - they were disinterested in the grasses she'd carefully picked.

Dinner was at an Italian restaurant in Wexford township - we split a meal... twice. We ordered the Penne Casa and finished it in record time. It was so good we ordered another plate of it. Then we finished off with the sticky toffee pudding - oh my oh my.

Day 2 photos

2010-08-21T15:50:00.001-07:00

No, YOU'RE a tart!

2010-08-21T15:41:00.000-07:00

Yesterday, the bartender at The Stand told us about a lovely fishing village, just northeast of Dublin. So this morning we loaded our bellies with fried breakfast at the B&B and headed up to Howth.

But, before that lovely ride, Katie verbally accosted a French woman who was staying at our B&B. Let me explain: Upon hearing the woman say "bon jour", Katie proceeded to enthusiastically rattle off every French phrase and word she could think of. The woman was delighted and entertained (...or scared to death - I can't be sure which). Katie ended with the word "fiancé". Then she pointed to me and said "no fiancé", which made the French lady roar with laughter. I, however, simply said when we were out of earshot, "not with that attitude, I'm not."

Back to Howth - Once there, we walked the narrow streets and hiked hidden trails along the rocky and green coast. The lower lands of Howth are the fishing village - but the hills are for the rich - massive houses dotted the coastal cliffs and hills. We met a nice fella from Reno, NV who was riding his bike up the hill - yet another friendly traveler.

Then we drove back to Dublin, parked the car and walked a short distance to St. Patrick's Cathedral. It is a lovely place, built in the tradition of all the glorious European churches. The altar seemed uniquely Irish, in that each seat had a helmet and sword mounted over it - the Irish do love their battles.

Then we walked to the Queen of Tarts (during which we called each other tarts at least a half dozen times). That was a lunch that took nearly two hours. The reason? Well, we had a very spacey waitress and inordinate amounts of food. The restaurant was fresh out of napkins, so we had to hose Katie down after the meal. But, all in all, add this to your list of things to do in Dublin. And try the chocolate, peach and almond tart - you'll think you've died and gone to heaven.

We took the scenic (horribly lost) route back to the hotel - passing gorgeous bridges, the Famine Ship Museum, and Dublin Castle along the way. I love this city ;-)

We napped a few hours. Then we awoke to have dinner at ten - we are oh so European. On the way out, we bumped into a chatty Irishman and a very friendly Chilean, whom Katie accosted - this time in a language she has mastered. He offered her his business card (he may have propositioned her... I can't be sure). She got to accost one more person, a Spaniard, at supper.

Having seen the big city, old city and fishing village side of the area, we
feel a truer appreciation of it.

Day 1 - more photos

2010-08-21T10:51:00.001-07:00

Day 1 photos

2010-08-21T10:39:00.001-07:00

Ahhhhh, Dublin... (or, we're "dublin" over with laughter)

2010-08-20T14:22:00.000-07:00

We arrived this morning before 9 am - I only slept a few winks on the plane. Our Flight Attendant warned us that regulating that particular plane's temperature was going to be tough. In a brogue she said, "We can either hatch baby chicks or hang meat in here. We'll see how it goes." But that wasn't the beginning of the laughs...

Previously, in my semi-permanent stressed state from too much work and not enough sleep, I had a cab driver bring us to the wrong terminal at Logan.

Then, Katie forgot to remove the pouched liquids from her bag which turned her into a potential security threat. So a female FTA worker came over to frisk her. "Do you remember me, Professor?" she said. That's right - one of her former students had to get frisky with Katie. That was a tad awkward...

Once on the plane, an exceptionally cranky and queeny Flight Attendant decided to badger the nice Irish father of four behind us. That resulted in the passenger calling the Attendant an a**hole - or as he later clarified to the Supervising Attendant, "I didn't call him an a**hole. I said, 'Don't BE an a**hole." You say a**-taeto; I say a**-tahto. The 60-something year old, smirking Supervising Attendant made the passenger promise to not call the Flight Attendant an a**hole again - he politely complied. For the record: the Flight Attendant was being a TOTAL a**-tahto...

When we arrived in Dublin, we picked up our car - which is a Suzuki that is actually smaller than my Mini! (...and slightly larger than a breadbox.) I proceeded to drive on the left side of the road - which for any American is the wrong side. But that has gone quite well. I even managed to find our B&B without much trouble - quite a stroke of luck, seeing as Dublin is saving money by not posting street signs... ;-)

We've met some fun people, drank some great beer (one of which, the bartender had me pour for myself! - thank you JP at The Stand), and had some great food. So far we have walked about 6-7 miles of the city and give big thumbs up to Trinity College, Temple Bar, Grafton Street, St. Stephen's Green and the people of Dublin, of course!

Going to Ireland

2010-08-17T15:17:00.001-07:00

I am psyched to say that in 48 hours I will be on my way to Ireland.

But in the meantime, let me test this new blogging app's ability to upload photos...

Autumnal explosion

2009-10-22T00:02:00.001-07:00

I love the sudden bursts of color as autumn finally comes into its own.

The Arboretum is singing

2009-08-31T16:53:00.000-07:00

This is my first bike commute to JP. The Arboretum's creatures are
singing a lullaby.

The end of the road

2009-08-29T09:10:00.001-07:00

This is the last morning of our amazing trip... You can see the toll
it has taken on Kyle, ha ha. The poor fella is still sleeping!

Bainbridge Island

2009-08-28T16:19:00.000-07:00

Living the dream

2009-08-28T13:01:00.001-07:00

Kyle fulfills a lifelong dream of eating a ham sandwich from a gas
station - pork BBQ.

Pioneer Square

2009-08-28T11:40:00.000-07:00

This pole has history - the original was stolen from the nearby tribe.
It was burned down by an arsonist in the 1940s - that's when Seattle
asked the tribe for another. They said "sure! After you pay for the
first one, you knuckleheads!" Well, that last part was improvised by
me...

The tour guide is a dead ringer for Norm McDonald

2009-08-28T10:50:00.001-07:00

In the blue stripes

Under Seattle

2009-08-28T10:47:00.001-07:00

This is a great tour of the underground.

Sunset from the game

2009-08-27T20:23:00.000-07:00

The Mariners

2009-08-27T20:21:00.000-07:00

Safeco Field

2009-08-27T19:23:00.000-07:00

Te Earle-Haynes contingent are in attendence!!! Randy got us great
seats to see the Mariners play the Royals. It is a perfect night to
see a ballgame.

Vancouver, anyone?

2009-08-27T12:24:00.000-07:00

Now THIS is what I want!

2009-08-27T07:13:00.000-07:00

Airstream makes THE COOLEST campers!

Kent, WA

2009-08-27T07:09:00.001-07:00

Yesterday was the most driving we've done on this trip. We estimate
400+ miles - from Kalispell, MT to Seattle ad Kent.

Seattle is a pretty city - situated on lots of water. We ate at a nice
restaurant last night - in total contrast to the roadside cafes to
which we'd become accustomed. Of course, punch drunk from driving, we
laughed so hard we thought we scared our waiter... Oh well.

We camped (or "kamped") at another KOA last night. I awoke to a chilly
and foggy morning. I think humidity is shocking my body - it feels
like 30-40 degrees did in Wyoming. Yet it is only 55 here.

Sculpture at the KOA Kalispell/Whitefish

2009-08-26T10:20:00.000-07:00

We opted to remain in Montana last night. We ate at a Taco John's -
dear god... Now we are driving to and through Idaho. Maybe we'll land
in Portland? Not sure yet.

Oh boy...

2009-08-25T19:57:00.000-07:00

Kyle has a thing for tacky tourist t shirts. This "Butte America"
shirt might get altered when he goes back to Chicago.

Oh, Canada!

2009-08-25T17:29:00.000-07:00

After leaving Many Glacier, we headed to the friendly land to the
north. Once again, they've trumped us - their hotel at Waterton is
stunning. Prince of Wales Hotel offered sweeping views of the range
and close encounters with white tailed deer.

Which reminds me that we've been very fortunate to be close to deer,
bison, black bears, wild mustangs, mountain goats, columbian ground
squirrels and more (perhaps a rattlesnake or two). Thank god the
grizzlies weren't that close!

Glaciers!

2009-08-25T17:23:00.000-07:00

You can see one of the glaciers in a section of the park called Many
Glacier. They are predicted to be gone by 2030.

Kayaking

2009-08-25T17:21:00.000-07:00

We opted to kayak on the lake - there may or may not have been wild
calls of "RAMMING SPEED" which spooked some birds...

Pelicans on St. Mary's Lake

2009-08-25T17:19:00.000-07:00

Luxurious!

2009-08-25T07:44:00.000-07:00

Wow! Due to a freezing forecast, we slept in a sleeping cabin last
night. It even had a little heater. And this is the view...

Sunset over St. Mary's

2009-08-24T19:41:00.000-07:00

And the moon's a silver sliver...

St. Mary's KOA

2009-08-24T18:37:00.000-07:00

Oddly, we've run smack into diversity. After a week of homogenous
Americana folk (other than tourists, of course) we are now knee deep
in the most diverse part of Montana - huh. Well, it's about damn time!

Other than that, we crossed the continental divide again and saw our
first glaciers - Jackson and Bearfoot. The road is remarkably clean
for the amount of fallen rock.

Tonight we are staying at the St. Mary's KOA. We opted for a cabin
(KOA spells it "kabin" which makes me nervous). Tonight will be around
35 degrees and we don't need another icy tent night.

We are now eating at a restaurant that has Italian food - though,
sadly, not ziti. I keep torturing Kyle with thoughts of ziti - he is
near the breaking point.

Skipping stones

2009-08-24T17:01:00.000-07:00

After a championship of skipping stones on Lake McDonald, we took to
the Going to the Sun Road. Here we are at Logan's Pass at 6,646 ft. We
just saw wild mountain goats and screeching columbian squirrels.

Going to the sun road

2009-08-24T15:45:00.000-07:00

This idea is so bad it's awesome

2009-08-24T13:46:00.000-07:00

Flathead reservation

2009-08-23T18:26:00.000-07:00

We drove intothe trailer park setting at the Missoula KOA and said
"eh, eh." So we drove 60 miles to Flathead Lake and a town called
Polson on the reservation. It is peaceful, clean and picturesque. They
normally only take RVs. But, are allowing us a tent spot for a cut rate.

Missoula

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U of M!

Butte is a beaut...

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Not really. This is an old mining town whose numbers have been cut by
2/3rds over the last century. But it is loaded with victorian
architecture. In this night view it is tough to see, but there are
towering frames lit with red light - they were used to lower miners,
mules and equipment nearly a mile underground.

Of course, where there was mining, there was... Ahem, entertainment...
There is a prostitution museum housed in an old brothel. This has been
a theme amongst the old towns we've visited. For each glorious front
entrance to a historic hotel, there is a back staircase for cowboys
and miners...

Rocky Mountain Oysters

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I couldn't do it...

Car graveyard

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This was too cool to pass up...

Part ghost town

2009-08-22T12:05:00.000-07:00

Virginia City has maintained the ghost town buildings from the
mid-1800s. It had been a gold rush town - with people flocking to it
from all over the world, looking to make a fortune with placer gold.
When the gold ran out, so did the people. There are graves of road
agents on Boot Hill.

Bug massacre

2009-08-22T09:01:00.000-07:00

Driving by Henry's Lake in Idaho last night, we took out thousands of
bugs. Ick.

Man make fire!!!

2009-08-21T20:32:00.000-07:00

In a very primal ceremony, we (Kyle) made fire. And we ate
marshmallows roasted on sticks. Then we got rid of all food items.

Where we are, on the western edge of Yellowstone, you must lock all
food up in your car - otherwise you end up with furry friends -
namely, grizzly bears. When the registering agent told me that, I told
her that my brother was the furriest friend I wanted anywhere near the
tent. She was amused.

Wyoming? Idaho.

2009-08-21T17:01:00.000-07:00

Lots of wheat... LOTS of wheat in souteastern Idaho.

Belt it out!!!

2009-08-21T12:23:00.000-07:00

I just couldn't resist te biggest belt buckle I'd ever seen...

Taking our time

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While Kyle blogs at the ranch, I am enjoying the river. What a
pleasant sound.

Every morning is a surprise

2009-08-21T06:32:00.000-07:00

We've gotten into the habit of using up our daylight taking photos and
checking out the sights. That means we have (3 nights in a row) been
driving to a closed campsite, finding an unused tent spot, set up the
tent by car headlights, and waking to see where we've camped!

This morning the spot delivered on the promise the sounds had made
last night. We are 30-40 ft from the edge of the Snake River. The
river has cut a path, over centuries, about 20-30 ft below the flat
ground. That little valley insulated us last night from any wind.
Though Jackson dipped down into the thirties, I'd guess our spot
remained above forty degrees. No frost or ice. We won this round!

The hunted

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A couple of cougars tried to hunt down this handsome young fella. He
survived.

Saddle up, partner!

2009-08-20T18:51:00.000-07:00

Due to several recommendations, Kyle and I are at the Cowboy Bar in
Jackson. The barstools are saddles and the decorations are pure
western kitsch - fabulous!!!

Jackson

2009-08-20T17:29:00.000-07:00

Well, after a small bout with altitude sickness that landed me in the
Yellowstone clinic, we walked the hotsprings, mud volcanoes and
watched old faithful. (thank you, yes - I'm fine).

Now we are driving to Jackson. The Tetons are stunning. We'll be
camping at about 6000 ft - should cure the ickiness I was feeling near
8000.

Frosty tent

2009-08-20T05:56:00.000-07:00

It got pretty cold last night. I got up this morning to warm up in the
car. Little bits of ice came off the tent as I unzipped it. The photo
is of our picnic table.

Sage brush

2009-08-19T17:25:00.000-07:00

Getting out of the car, I smelled it. The sage is fragrant. It has
silvery leaves that seem to glint against the backdrop of the deep
green hues of the grass.

Buffalo

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In Yellowstone Park. We got close... Really close...

Sometimes you just need to buy stuff

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