Fairwell

We are on our way out of Ireland. Hopeful that we might return someday.

Misc Ireland

Day 10 photos

Tea for two

After leaving my family (with a parting gift of a trick poo), we drove the coastline to Rossaveel. We caught the ferry to Inishmore - the largest of the Aran Islands.

Immediately upon disembarking, we were hounded by loads of bike-for-hire and horse-and-trap companies. We opted to walk the small island, stopping for cows and beach vistas. It seems as though the island may be or have been volcanic from the rocks on the beach. We had tea for two before leaving.

Then we took the ferry back and drove from Rosssaveel to Dublin. At Galway we hooked up with the new M6 which moves well through the center of the country to Dublin.

We are now back at out B&B from the first two nights in Dublin and are preparing to go home.
:-(

Day 9 photos

Bustling downtown Galway

Today we opted to go into Galway City - I call it that because "downtown Galway" made my aunt laugh. What a charming city. We went to the market (always there on a Saturday), the Spanish Arch, Nora Barnacle's house and sat for bread and butter pudding in an outdoor cafe - big surprise, I know.

Then we drove to the Claddah, Salt Hill and several other towns around the shoreline. It is so lovely!

Then we went back to my family's house for another delicious dinner and lots of laughs. They are so much fun!

Day 8 photos

Elvis Presley and Johnny Cash

We began our day with a horseback ride along the cliffs, as we were blessed with another sunny day. Liam was our knowledgeable guide - a strong, handsome and bright lad of fifteen. The clear day afforded views of Galway Bay and the mountains. Liam said that was quite unusual as a fog often settles over the bay. I was riding Elvis Presley (in his prime and skinny years) and Katie was atop Johnny Cash. Both horses were very polite and willing.

After our ride, we drove to Lisdoonvarna for lunch. This is the town with the famous Matchmaking Festival in September. It is very small - but with loads of charm.

On our way into Galway, we passed through the Burren - a rocky terrain that might as well be called the Barren. It is totally inhospitable at the top and lush valley at its base.

Then we arrived at the Cliffs of Moher. What a stunning view! We walked along - delighted by the silly signs warning that getting too close to the edge would result in a terrible, rocky death.

Then we drove into Galway. After a bit of getting turned around, we arrived at my aunt, uncle and cousin's house. They were delightful hosts, entertaining us with delicious food, champagne and wonderful stories of their daughter's recent wedding in Italy. It was so welcoming!

Day 7 photos

When the dog (horse) bites...

The dog returned to the B&B once Katie had gone up to the room - he's a stealth one. But Katie got in one last snuggle before we were off.

Breakfast was delicious - the house was booked, so we heard lots of accents and languages. We spoke to some nice fellas who liked it so much they were staying another night. Katie entertained some of us by trying to make toast - on two occasions she managed to launch her toasted slices out of the toaster, landing somewhere nearby.

Back on the Ring. We saw some amazing landscapes along the westernmost points - with Skellig Michael and Little Skellig punctuating the Atlantic.

We landed in Doolin - a picturesque little pub town with musical roots. Maeve was our host at the Churchfields B&B, which was nestled in a field in the shadow of a ruined church. We had dinner at O'Connor's and listened to music at Fitzpatrick's over another sticky toffee pudding and a pint of Guiness. Then we walked back to our B&B on the hill. But not before Katie tried to snuggle a horse and was bit. The skin wasn't broken. But they didn't stop the hypochondriac from assuming the worst - from staph infection to an amputation...

Day 6 photos

Porridge... FINALLY!!!

Katie got her porridge - after several failed attempts. Chris made an amazing breakfast spread for us and talked with us about American politics. My fried breakfast was delicious - it included black pudding - all said and done, there were sausages, bacon, eggs and two types of pudding - that's 5 meats... 5. My arteries are loudly chugging their way through this country.

We said goodbye to the folks and the dogs (Scamp and Lily) and we were off to navigate the slender roadways, up and down the hills of Kinsale to see Charles' Fort.

Then we hit the Ring of Kerry. It is absolutely stunning - very inhospitable landscapes at times. Katie has abandoned accosting people and has instead taken to scaring many forms of wildlife. Today it was sheep. She tracked them with a camera like a hunter with a shotgun. And they ran accordingly. When we arrived at the midpoint of the Ring, we found a lovely B&B with a friendly dog named Mondo - as I write, he is currently hiding from Katie... Even the sheep have fled the hillside. It's disturbing. I think our hostess even left.

We walked a little while ago and saw some amazing horses. At one point during our hike, a horse was calling to us over the hill.

Day 5 - photos

A shipwreck

We found out what we missed - breakfast was spectacular! Kathleen and Jack put on a wonderful spread at the castle - including their hens' eggs and cows' milk.

Then we were off to see the oldest working lighthouse in the world at Hook's Head. On the way we saw an amazing shipwreck - the ribs of the ship were exposed - really amazing. We then drove through New Ross which is where the Kennedy clan is from. Then we stopped for lunch in Waterford before driving through  and onto Kinsale. That is a picturesque fishing village, now overrun by tourists and foodies. We stayed at the Olde Bakery with Chris and Tom - they are a very funny couple.

The driving is often winding and occasionally treacherous - especially when you are trying to share a particularly narrow road with an oncoming tourbus. Though I must admit, I like the adventure of it. :-)

Day 4 photos

The Norse and the horse

We started off the day by missing breakfast at Killiane Castle. We said good morning to the horse and cows then went into Wexford for breakfast. We ate at the Potato Market and met some very nice people who live in the area... And their dog. They'd taken a year's holiday and gone to New Zealand for much of it - they highly recommend that country.

Then we walked the water's edge and wandered around the old town walls and the remains of the old priory. Wexford, like many others (including Dublin) is an old Norse town. There is evidence of the Viking history in the narrow alleys, strong forts and in the language. Irish sounds a lot like a fiord language.

Then we spent the day wandering around the 230-some acres at Killiane. Unlike American B&Bs, you are encouraged to wander in with the sheep an in the old tower - a fastened chain or lock doesn't mean "keep out". :-)

We ate in sleepy Rosslare and bumped into our waiter from the Potato Market and his mother. Lily was her name and she beamed about him!

We arrived 15 mins too late for dessert at the restaurant in Wexford. But made up for it with traditional Irish music and a half Guinness at a local pub.

Day 3 - more photos

Day 3 photos

Monks and farmers

We awoke in Dublin, had breakfast (Katie had another fried breakfast - I had cereal - I am nearly meated out), then we said goodbye to the Chilean and our Romanian/Irish host, and we were on our way. 

Our first stop was Powerscourt - this was a spectacular estate and garden. We were amongst old cars - both American and European. The gardens were similar to Versailles. 

Next stop: Glendalogh. This is 6th century monastic settlement - ruins abound. St. Kevin sure did know his scenery. 

Then we had lunch in Avoca - which means the meeting of the waters. We sat with a nice couple in their late-sixties - he is British and she is Irish. They live in England and, I got the news directly: she wins all their arguments. The restaurant had music outside and Gaelic Football inside - it was a strong match between Dublin and Cork - I don't know who won.

Then it was a beautiful, speedy and serpentine drive through hallowed forests and pristine farm country. We made several stops for sheep-time. 

Then we arrived at Wexford - a sleepy fishing village on a Sunday. Our B&B is Killiane Castle and Farmhouse - with horse, sheep, hens and cows. The host was a tad confused that I'd selected a room with one double instead of two singles. ;-) It is picturesque and I've been awarded Girlfriend of the Year for finding and booking it. Katie fed the hens who chose to peck at her finger, probably thinking it was a grub - they were disinterested in the grasses she'd carefully picked.

Dinner was at an Italian restaurant in Wexford township - we split a meal... twice. We ordered the Penne Casa and finished it in record time. It was so good we ordered another plate of it. Then we finished off with the sticky toffee pudding - oh my oh my.

Day 2 photos

No, YOU'RE a tart!

Yesterday, the bartender at The Stand told us about a lovely fishing village, just northeast of Dublin. So this morning we loaded our bellies with fried breakfast at the B&B and headed up to Howth. 

But, before that lovely ride, Katie verbally accosted a French woman who was staying at our B&B. Let me explain: Upon hearing the woman say "bon jour", Katie proceeded to enthusiastically rattle off every French phrase and word she could think of. The woman was delighted and entertained (...or scared to death - I can't be sure which). Katie ended with the word "fiancé". Then she pointed to me and said "no fiancé", which made the French lady roar with laughter. I, however, simply said when we were out of earshot, "not with that attitude, I'm not."

Back to Howth - Once there, we walked the narrow streets and hiked hidden trails along the rocky and green coast. The lower lands of Howth are the fishing village - but the hills are for the rich - massive houses dotted the coastal cliffs and hills. We met a nice fella from Reno, NV who was riding his bike up the hill - yet another friendly traveler.

Then we drove back to Dublin, parked the car and walked a short distance to St. Patrick's Cathedral. It is a lovely place, built in the tradition of all the glorious European churches. The altar seemed uniquely Irish, in that each seat had a helmet and sword mounted over it - the Irish do love their battles.

Then we walked to the Queen of Tarts (during which we called each other tarts at least a half dozen times). That was a lunch that took nearly two hours. The reason? Well, we had a very spacey waitress and inordinate amounts of food. The restaurant was fresh out of napkins, so we had to hose Katie down after the meal. But, all in all, add this to your list of things to do in Dublin. And try the chocolate, peach and almond tart - you'll think you've died and gone to heaven.

We took the scenic (horribly lost) route back to the hotel - passing gorgeous bridges, the Famine Ship Museum, and Dublin Castle along the way. I love this city ;-)

We napped a few hours. Then we awoke to have dinner at ten - we are oh so European. On the way out, we bumped into a chatty Irishman and a very friendly Chilean, whom Katie accosted - this time in a language she has mastered. He offered her his business card (he may have propositioned her... I can't be sure). She got to accost one more person, a Spaniard, at supper. 

Having seen the big city, old city and fishing village side of the area, we
feel a truer appreciation of it.

Day 1 - more photos

Day 1 photos

Ahhhhh, Dublin... (or, we're "dublin" over with laughter)

We arrived this morning before 9 am - I only slept a few winks on the plane. Our Flight Attendant warned us that regulating that particular plane's temperature was going to be tough. In a brogue she said, "We can either hatch baby chicks or hang meat in here. We'll see how it goes." But that wasn't the beginning of the laughs...

Previously, in my semi-permanent stressed state from too much work and not enough sleep, I had a cab driver bring us to the wrong terminal at Logan.

Then, Katie forgot to remove the pouched liquids from her bag which turned her into a potential security threat. So a female FTA worker came over to frisk her. "Do you remember me, Professor?" she said. That's right - one of her former students had to get frisky with Katie. That was a tad awkward...

Once on the plane, an exceptionally cranky and queeny Flight Attendant decided to badger the nice Irish father of four behind us. That resulted in the passenger calling the Attendant an a**hole - or as he later clarified to the Supervising Attendant, "I didn't call him an a**hole. I said, 'Don't BE an a**hole." You say a**-taeto; I say a**-tahto. The 60-something year old, smirking Supervising Attendant made the passenger promise to not call the Flight Attendant an a**hole again - he politely complied. For the record: the Flight Attendant was being a TOTAL a**-tahto...

When we arrived in Dublin, we picked up our car - which is a Suzuki that is actually smaller than my Mini! (...and slightly larger than a breadbox.) I proceeded to drive on the left side of the road - which for any American is the wrong side. But that has gone quite well. I even managed to find our B&B without much trouble - quite a stroke of luck, seeing as Dublin is saving money by not posting street signs... ;-)

We've met some fun people, drank some great beer (one of which, the bartender had me pour for myself! - thank you JP at The Stand), and had some great food. So far we have walked about 6-7 miles of the city and give big thumbs up to Trinity College, Temple Bar, Grafton Street, St. Stephen's Green and the people of Dublin, of course!

Going to Ireland

I am psyched to say that in 48 hours I will be on my way to Ireland.

But in the meantime, let me test this new blogging app's ability to upload photos...